Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

   We got in to Vestmannaeyjar, an island off the S coast of Iceland, on the 9th June. 8 days out from Clifden. 

Connor & me, leaving Clifden

   No gales during the crossing, nothing more than F5. The weather was dominated by a huge high in the North Atlantic, above us. Winds were light, often following, fickle or calm at times. 

   We saw three minke whales (I think). Two were curious and followed us very near the stern quarter, getting bolder as they dove shallower and we could see the white of their bellies. Several schools of pilot whales. A group of dolphins. Many birds - gannets, fulmars, storm petrels, skuas, jaegers. Many land or shore birds lost and adrift on the ocean, circling us before flying off into the wastes. One landed and stayed with us for three nights - a shorebird like the sanderling but a bit bigger and with brown on his wings. He was well fed and watered, and I hoped he would stay until we reached Iceland, but the engine, started up for motoring in the calm, scared him away. Charlie was his name. 

On Vestmannaeyjar, looking north. To the left of the mountains in the distance is Eyjafjallajokull, which erupted under ice 10 years ago and the ensuing ash cloud shut down European air space for a few weeks. 

   At Vestmannaeyjar harbour entrance we hove to to take some fish - cod, pollack, haddock, snapper. Fresh fish with potatoes is always a winner. Great dinner.








   Yesterday morning Vasilij left us and, as I now type, is on board his flight for Denmark and home to Lithuania. Not an outcome I wanted.

   We are now scouting around for a replacement. However, I am happy to continue with just us three. This change has no effect on coastal sailing. On the open sea, it means a little more caution, maybe sail in these empty seas with all asleep for a few hours at a time, maybe 18 or 20 hours watch a day, and more reliance on Teddy's self steering abilities which makes life a whole lot easier for the helmsman who is freed from the wheel. 

   Cape Farewell is 700 NM  (1260 km) distant. The high system continues, and the winds rotating clockwise are unfavourable for leaving from here for the next few days. Wednesday and Thursday look good. 

   

   The ice is fast opening up around Cape Farewell and it looks good for a fairly clear passage through Prinz Kristiansund. 

Danish ice chart, showing Cape Farewell at the bottom. The maze of channels inside of it is Prinz Kristiansund.  Red is 90-100 % ice. Pale green is 20 % ice which is passable with some work. 30 % ice is considered the maximum a small boat can traverse. This chart is dated 5th June, and we hope to be there about the 22nd of June - 17 days later. Looking good.
The west coast in the chart is clear - indeed most of the southwest of Greenland is mostly clear all spring. 

   We enjoy the town sauna, walk around, eat out, sample the beer, stout & ale at night, and hobnob like mad with people everywhere we go.