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Trip's End

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  Jon Karlsson, an old friend & a lifelong fisherman in Djupivogur, East Iceland, offered to help me take Teddy there from Grindavik & to keep an eye on her for the winter. He did this once before, with Teddy wintering at Eskifjordur up the Eastfjords, and after that he sailed home to Ireland with me, just the two of us.    Djupivogur is a great harbour, at a very beautiful and unusual fjord not much visited by sailors. I have been here quite a few times and have developed some relationships here. I could not say no.   Jon drove across Iceland to Grindavik, a 6 hour drive, and left the car there. We set up Teddy for the trip - refuelling; tighten the mizzen stays so that we had two sails, the mizzen and the staysail; final clearance of the bowsprit wreckage. We motorsailed nonstop 48 hours and got in the day before yesterday, no hassle.                                                         Jon at the wheel                                                                      

Storm

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    We made slow progress going east, with fickle winds.      Then ran into a storm at 61N x 30W, about 300 NM SW of Iceland.       Teddy got  two full knockdowns. The first broke the main mast 3/4 way up. The next put us on the ceiling. A part knockdown, one of many, took out the entire bowsprit structure. Other damage included: a broken main boom; most stays overstretched the majority severely; 2 foresails that were tied to the bowsprit were lost; a cabintop handrail was partly pulled out.     No one hurt. I got a nice collection of bruises, nothing big. The damage to Teddy, though impressive, is not severe, and is most certainly repairable.   The hull was rock solid. But my preparations for the storm and the anticipated knockdown were incomplete, and the fore hatch, skylight and companionway hatch were designed for moderate conditions, not for conditions of water under extreme pressure water blasting in, The interior was quite wet & I pumped out 200 liters.    We rested 2 or 3 d

Mountains, glaciers, icebergs #2 - up the east coast from PK Sund

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                                                                                         Plenty of glaciers on the east coast                                                         One berg, 2 heads                                                                          Brooding                                              Anchored to fish in the lake upstream. No luck.     Floe. This can be formed only at sea and it came down the East Greenland coast from the polar basin.               Two floes. Perhaps a storm drove one under the other, and then they froze together.                                          Looking up a fjord, glacier at its head.                                                             Abandoned hunting lodge   Polar bear track, medium size. Parallel to it was a smaller set of track. Mother & cub. A few days old.                                                                       Freshwater grass                                          Farewell O Greenla

Mountains, icebergs, glaciers: Prinz Kristiansund

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                                                          Bergs at sea, on way to PKS                                                                                                          Glacier ice                                               Entering PKS from the head, from Aappiattoq village                                                  Found a cool little cove by a glacier Same view as above. Taken in evening, when the glacier sheds more ice during the warm afternoon & evening. The glacier moves faster. The calving ice hits the rock and shatters into these fragments.        Neatly tucked in for the night. The chart (printed 2000) shows that this spot was all solid ice. Everything in the photo was encased in ice 20 years ago.                                                    Another glacier                                                            Descending Prinz Kristiansund         The splash of ice that fell from on high. We enjoyed watching for these and saw lots